I arrived in Mumbai on 24 April 2019 and a week later I began my work at the Slum Rehabilitation Society (SRS), based in the suburb of Bandra. SRS is an NGO that was established by Adolf Tragler in 1972. It was the first of its kind to begin developing principles of slum rehabilitation, even before the government. Ever since, SRS has been a key facilitator in Slum Rehabilitation Projects in Mumbai.

As Bandra is quite a journey from where we are staying in Chembur (takes approximately an hour), the first few days proved quite difficult to find an auto/cab willing to make the journey in the traffic. Now, after around three weeks of travelling to and from work, I feel comfortable that any struggles can be easily resolved by asking a local for some help.

In work, much of my time is spent researching a wide range of topics in relation to India. I looked at the history of India before colonisation, the prehistoric era, Bronze Age, and so on until the early modern period which saw the rise and fall of the Mughal Empire. Then, in more detail, I researched the colonial era of the Portuguese and the British and the effects it had on the local population. Other topics I researched include the political system here, the culture and traditions, the geography and geology of the subcontinent and the origins of the people of India.

All these topics and readings were provided by an academic mentor who grew up in Kolkata and went to a Christian Brothers School established by the Irish. He provided me with some interesting information regarding the coincidental links between India and Ireland. Setting aside our similar flag, our Taoiseach, Leo Varadkar, is half-Indian. Pallonji Mistry, a construction tycoon who is one of the richest men in both countries, is an Irish citizen.

I have also begun an essay which will include the history of India and in particular Mumbai with special attention to the colonial influence and how it helped develop the country. The main body of the essay will address the failures to rehabilitate Dharavi (one of the biggest slums in Asia) in the past, and its future prospects with a new plan in place called the DRP (Dharavi Redevelopment Plan).

As a pioneer in the field, SRS has to date helped to rehabilitate more than 9,000 families in various slum redevelopment and upgrade projects across the city of Mumbai. SRS also conducts social welfare activities in the education, healthcare and female empowerment arenas. SRS consults for various government agencies and infrastructure development projects that involve Project Affected Persons (PAPs).

Aside from working at the NGO, I have been exploring the city. I’ve been to Marine Drive to watch the sunset, and to the Gateway of India, built during the 20th century to commemorate the landing of King-Emperor George V and Queen-Empress Mary at Apollo Bunder in 1911. We also took a trip out to Elephanta Island where there are a collection of cave temples containing rock cut stone sculptures dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The island got this name when the Portuguese arrived on the island and found elephant statues on it.